Léa Perret, ambassador for the Apogée range, new La Sommelière aging cellars that are connected and remotely manageable, shares all her tips for bringing great wines to perfect maturity, which bottles to choose for aging, and when to enjoy your wine.
Hello Léa, as the best young wine merchant in France 2022 and a Nicolas wine merchant, tell us about aging wine. Is it true that wine improves with time?
Absolutely! Wine improves with time, just like the charm of people that grows as they mature. The job of a connoisseur is to seek out the apogee of their wines, which is the moment when the wine will give the best of its expression.
Which wines can be aged?
Several factors come into play: the vintage, the climatic conditions that have a direct impact on its quality but also on its aging potential, the tannins, which provide the necessary structure for the wine to age and develop. One might think that only red wines can age since white wines don't have tannins, but this is where acidity comes into play. Without acidity, the wine loses its rhythm over time. Finally, the sugar content is also important, as sugar is a natural preservative. Thus, sweet wines have strong aging potential.
Which wines age the best?
To name just a few: Pinot Noir from the Côte de Nuit, Chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune, Sauvignon and Chenin from the Loire Valley, great Champagnes, Bordeaux from the Médoc or Libournais, and Syrah from the Northern Rhône Valley. Every region has its wine that can be aged.
How do you determine the aging time of a wine?
It's difficult to generalize. It also depends on the vintage, the aging process, the soil, and the grape varieties used. There are basic tools, like charts, that show a Bordeaux wine will have an aging potential of 4 to 10 years, for a Bordeaux grand cru between 10 and 20 years, and for a Côte du Rhône, in a great appellation, also 10 to 20 years. One must be careful about the decline and not keep the wine too long either. To be well informed, it's best to consult a professional, such as a wine merchant. It's also very important to keep a wine cellar log, to know what you have in the cellar and when to take the wines out.
As an ambassador for La Sommelière cellars, I recommend the Vinotag® app, a free app available on Android and iOS, which allows you to manage your wine cellar digitally. Connectivity is a great idea, practical and modern. With this app, you can also know when it's time to enjoy your wine.
Without a natural cellar, how can one age wine?
Typically, when living in a city, it's rare to have a natural cellar. That's why, personally, I quickly invested in an aging cellar.
Whether at home or in the store, I am fully equipped with La Sommelière wine cellars. For me, it's the safest way to store wine. Without a cellar, you wouldn't be able to meet all the storage conditions, such as stable temperature, adequate humidity level, UV protection, etc.
What tasting advice can you give once the peak date has been reached?
Drink it immediately! You must be very careful with the decline to enjoy the wines at their peak. I've heard many customers lament that their wines have gone past their best. So it's important to enjoy them once they're ready, that's when they have the most to offer. Invite your loved ones, cook a dish that pairs well with the wine, and let the magic happen.
Why do some people open their wine bottles to let them breathe? On what type of wine do you recommend doing this?
Remember that the wine has been locked in its glass case since it was bottled. You can easily draw a parallel with a person: if you've been locked inside for a long time, the first contact with the outside is always a bit harsh; it takes a few minutes to get used to the new environment. It's similar for wine; it needs to breathe, and depending on its profile, this breathing time will vary. To be more technical, you open a bottle about twenty minutes before drinking it to let any reductive, volatile, or SO2 compounds escape.
It is therefore recommended to open your bottles at least 20 minutes before tasting. The result is clear: open a bottle, drink a glass immediately, and come back 20 minutes later—it will have already evolved.
Some great white wines need a long time to breathe. As for reds, ideally, they should be aired for at least an hour. I know that customers don't always follow this rule, and I know that their bottle will only reach its aromatic peak by the second or third glass.
What first wine would you choose for an aging cellar?
I would recommend a sweet wine, like a Sauternes; it's the first I had in my cellar. I could also mention Yquem, Coutet, or Climens.
Which wine to keep for 10 years?
A Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes in a magnum.
Which wine to keep for 20 years?
A great champagne like Salon’s S.
Which wine to keep for 30 years?
A Margaux. Either Château Margaux or Brane-Cantenac, I particularly love the finesse they have when they are old. They completely change their profile.
Your top three wines that benefit from aging?
Châteauneuf-du-Pape in red, Chablis grand cru, and Bandol in red. These three wines have little interest if they are drunk too early.
In your opinion, the ultimate bottle to have in your aging cellar?
Château Chalon, a vin jaune from Jura. It will stand the test of time. In any case, the tasting moment will always be memorable because these are wines that are so distinctive on the palate that they always create a lasting memory. I think it's the ultimate bottle to have in your aging cellar.
10 attractively priced wines you recommend?
"I Sicani", Nero d'Avola, Sicily, €8.40
"L'Écailler", Gros Plant du Pays Nantais, Chateau Guipière, €8.80
"Altesse de Montagnieu", Bugey, Yves Duport, €12.50
"Quand Rayan rêve", Côtes-du-Rhône, Domaine Garrigon, €9.10
Crémant du Jura, Jacques Tissot, €13.90
"Cuvée Première", Côtes de Duras, Sauvignon, Les vignerons de Berticot, €8.20
Domaine de la Croix de l'Ange, Beaujolais rouge, €7.80
Cheverny rouge, Domaine de la Desoucherie, €9.80
"Racines", Côtes Catalanes, Domaine de Lauriga, €9.70
"Jardin de Jules", Pays d'Oc, Domaine de la Clapière, €7.80