What to drink with asparagus

Spring is here, and with it the first asparagus on the market stalls. This vegetable is most often served as a starter, or even as an aperitif in the form of verrines or on toast. Like other green vegetables, asparagus has the reputation of being a dish that doesn't go well with wine. Its highly vegetal, root-like, ferrous flavors and particularly fibrous texture don't make the sommelier's task any easier. What's more, they are often accompanied by vinaigrette, mousseline sauce or mayonnaise, which are not the best partners for wine either. Nevertheless, a closer look reveals a number of wines that go wonderfully well with this vegetable, depending on the variety of asparagus.

The different asparagus varieties

White asparagus accounts for the majority of production. It owes its white color to the absence of light, as it grows entirely under a mound of earth. It has a delicate flavor, even if it retains bitter root notes, with soft, melting flesh. Violet asparagus is a white asparagus whose head has been left to grow through the mound, where it turns mauve in contact with the sun. It has a fruitier taste, but is also slightly more bitter. Green asparagus grows entirely in the open air, and light gives it its color through the synthesis of chlorophyll. This more tender variety has a more pronounced vegetable flavor. Finally, wild asparagus, found mainly in Mediterranean scrublands, notably in Corsica, has a distinctive fragrance marked by a hint of bitterness.

Pairings with asparagus

Forget red wines, which are impossible to match with asparagus, as they overwhelm the delicate flavors and the vegetable exacerbates and hardens the tannins. You're left with a choice of whites, all of which are dry and highly aromatic, often with a touch of minerality. Their liveliness contrasts with unctuous sauces such as mayonnaise, and their fruity aromatics soften the bitter, vegetal edge. Whites made from Sauvignon grapes, particularly in the Loire region, are a perfect match for white asparagus. Avoid overly sophisticated, barrel-aged versions. Choose from Touraine, Sancerre or Pouilly-Fumé. The vegetal, fruity and mineral notes, as well as the good acidity, are in perfect harmony with this vegetable.

With purple asparagus, a dry Muscat d'Alsace, with its floral and fruity notes, broadens the gustatory range of the dish. As Muscat from Alsace is in short supply, you can turn to Languedoc and Roussillon, the other parts of this grape variety. Or try a Loire wine made from Chenin. With green asparagus, you can still call on a Muscat, especially those from the south of France. But you can also opt for other highly aromatic grape varieties such as viognier or marsanne. The exuberant aromas of a Condrieu (viognier), but unwooded with a hint of bitterness, will go perfectly with the green variety. Marsanne, on the other hand, is more subtle, with less aromatic intensity.